TARANAKI -The Perfect Volcano

If you were to draw a volcano, chances are that it would look just like Taranaki as this mountain is one of the most symmetrical volcanic cones in the world. We had arrived at New Plymouth on a grey and windy afternoon which meant no view of the mountain despite having our noses pressed to the window of the bus, but the forecast for the following day was for cold but dry weather, so we booked a couple of places on a shuttle bus which would take us to the Visitor Centre - base camp for all walks up the mountain. As predicted, it was a cold and sunny morning, and with a rucksack of sarnies and chocolate, and me snug in my zebra thermal wear, we were picked up early by Tom along with one other passenger called Patrick who was completing the High Altitude Circular track around the mountain in four days, camping along the way. Tom was explaining the logistics of the trip as we drove out of town (he would drop us off, go surfing for the day and pick us up from the same spot late afternoon) so none of us were prepared for the first sighting of Taranaki. Rising from lush and flat dairy pastures, it looked like a perfect backdrop from a movie - the perfect volcano with snow on top. We fell silent after the initial gasp and Tom's face was plastered with a big proud grin. He explained that Taranaki is a sacred place to the Maoris, a place where the bones of their chiefs are buried and a place that would once have been used as an escape from the terrorism of other tribes. They see Taranaki as a grandfather figure, looking over them all as they go about their lives , treating each other with respect. Maori people that walk on the hill go no higher than the snowline as they consider walking to the summit akin to stamping on Taranaki's head.

We reported in at the Visitor Centre and took advice from the staff on the best options for walking tracks for the weather conditions of the day. It turned out that we were talking to a guy that had worked at the Outward Bound Centre near Dolgellau for six years and hadn't long been back in New Zealand! Our route would be the Holly Track initially, turning off onto the Veronica Track which would break out above the tree line and meet the High Altitude Track. We would follow this track as far as the Ranghuni Hut, then start our descent down a 4wd track, turning onto the Ngataro Bush Loop to complete the hike. We noted our route in the book and signed out. Almost immediately we were lost in an amazing world of gnarled trees, mosses and ferns which seemed to hang from every branch - the camera went into overdrive. We gained altitude quickly and I was starting to regret wearing my long thermals but by the time we walked out above the trees I'd changed my mind as the wind was bitter. We climbed upwards along a shingle ridge and eventually turned around to the most spectacular view . The roof of the Visitor Centre was a tiny dot in the trees miles down below and we could see lots of villages dotted over the green plains. On the horizon, the trio of Ruapehu, Ngharahoe and Tongariro peeked out over the clouds. We joined the circular track and were glad of a fairly flat and undulating path after a couple of hours climbing. The snowline was getting nearer by now and the puddles on the track were frozen and we had to cross a couple of slips where the track had just fallen away down the side of the mountain. The last climb was over a tussocky landscape with hebes and flax and at last we reached the snowline which we followed for a couple of miles to the hut. The Ranghuni Hut is a privately owned cabin which can be used by members of the public in an emergency situation. I presume that you just phone the Visitor Centre who will tell you that the spare key is under the mat. It was locked when we got there but through the window we could see a dozen comfortable looking bunks and a big wood-burning stove. But there was no time to hang around - we had an estimated return time, after which the dogs would be sent out on our route and we didn't want to be late.

Going down was far more strenuous than going up - parts of the path were very steep and required little steps to prevent toppling over. I found the Franz Shuffle, a sideways technique of steep descent that we'd learnt while glacier-hiking quite effective and managed to stay on my feet - which is more than can be said for the other member of the party. The Ngataro Bush Loop was a lovely end to the walk - it zigzagged over a mountain stream through ferns and lush vegetation and we were followed by robins and fantails feeding on the insects disturbed by our footsteps. We arrived back at the Visitor Centre before our deadline but five minutes after the cafe had closed so there was no cup of hot chocolate that we'd promised ourselves all afternoon.

There wasn't much energy left over by the time we got back to the hostel so we watched a movie over supper and went to bed early. As I closed the curtains in our room, I couldn't help but wonder about Patrick, alone in his little tent on the mountainside and Tom's words that Taranaki had last erupted in 1755 and was due to go again at any time ...